Offally Good: Where to buy offal and unusual cuts in London

WHEN it comes to offal - the umbrella term for the entrails and, often, extremities of animals - it pays to be versed in the language of euphemism. 'Offal' itself is one: it's the 'off fall' when an animal is butchered. More charmingly, it's known as the 'quarto quinto' (fifth quarter) in Italian, in old English as 'umbles' (the poor made 'humble pie' with them), and in America as 'variety meats'.

Tables of variety meats

   

Considered the poor cousin of prime cuts (fillet steak, chicken breast, etc.), offal isn't always easy to find but for the 'basics', that is, chicken livers and lamb's liver and kidneys. The average supermarket won't offer a huge range, but a good butcher (one that buys in whole carcasses) will. Even the more recherché cuts like lamb's 'pluck' (windpipe, lungs, etc.), 'fries' or 'animelles' (testicles) - note those euphemisms again - and whole heads will be available on request.

 

When cooking offal, always be sure it's fresh (you'd want it to be: think about the bodily functions these organs perform). If you can't eat it straight away, call upon time-honoured, time-consuming culinary skills to preserve it in sausages, pâté or brawn.

The taste and texture of any internal organ depends on the species and age of the animal. Chefs love veal and lamb offal for its finer flavour and texture; sheep, pig and ox offal is coarser (and cheaper). Nutritionally speaking, offal is a good source of protein with the heart, kidney and liver all rich in iron.

Since the economy took a nosedive, supermarkets have reported buoyant sales of this economical ingredient. Heartening news, but anathema to the true foodie who has always loved offal - for reasons of taste, not thrift.

As it makes the move from fashionable menus back to the domestic kitchen, what else could we be cooking at home?

 

Cow's head

 


A pig 

 

Liver
The cheapest option is pig's liver (fry with bacon), followed by lamb's liver (delicious with onions). Chicken or calf's liver, quickly pan-fried and served pink, is the upscale option. Foie gras, of course, is as luxurious as offal comes.

Kidneys
Familiar to most from steak and kidney pie. Use on the day of purchase, clean and remove membranes before cooking.

Sweetbreads
Delicate, soft and quite mild in flavour, lamb's or calf's sweetbreads are loved by chefs. The name doesn't refer to the testicles, but to the thymus and pancreas. Soak for several hours before cooking.

Stomach and intestines
The first three chambers of a cow's stomach are known as tripe. Once hugely popular in England, tripe has to be thoroughly washed and boiled for several hours before cooking. Pork 'tripe' often goes into andouillette sausages. Chitterlings refer to the pig's small intestine only.

Heart
Ox heart is good lean meat. It should be trimmed and marinated before being sliced, grilled and served with mustard or horseradish.

Cheeks
One of the most fashionable cuts of recent years. Veal, beef and pork cheeks are all popular. All benefit from long, gentle braising. 'Bath chaps' are brined pork cheeks.

Brain
Deep-fried calf's brains with its creamy texture and melting consistency are a real treat. A pig's head can be broken down, slowly braised and set into brawn.

Feet
Cow's feet (as used in Caribbean cookery) and pig's trotters (enjoyed in France) have a texture both gelatinous and crunchy. They need to be scrubbed (and shaved if necessary!), then slow cooked for hours.

 

Offal Suppliers

Baldwins
469 Green Lanes
Haringey, London N4
020 8340 5934
Dove & Son
71 Northcote Road
Battersea, London SW11
0845 6447763
www.doveandson.co.uk
Frank Godfrey Family Butcher
7 Highbury Park
London N5
020 7226 2425
www.fgodfrey.co.uk
The Ginger Pig
Borough Market
London SE1
020 7403 4721
www.thegingerpig.co.uk
(branches in Waterloo, Hackney and Marylebone)
M. Moen & Sons
24 The Pavement
Clapham Common, London SW4
020 7622 1624
www.moen.co.uk

 

Waitrose
Forgotten Cuts range
www.waitrose.com